Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
D-train

Dwayne's S14 - 278,000km Street/Sprint Zenki

Recommended Posts

1994 S14, series 1

SR20DET, 5spd

 

Had the car since October 2007, can finally afford to do what I wanted to originally with it and get it onto the track for some sprint days. So far it's only seen 2 days at Winton, the second being the recent WRX sprint day, where I managed a low 1.45:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF_QVvOKGFM

 

 

I'll be doing the DriverDynamics day at Haunted Hills on the 10th of October as well - since it's a fairly tight circuit I'm considering getting a set of Greddy Easy cams in beforehand.

 

Also joining PIARC and getting my CAMS L2S license, so I'm looking forward to some time at Phillip Island and Sandown.

 

 

As for the car:

 

ENGINE


    Rocker arm stoppers (Oct07)
    GReddy FMIC (Dec07)
    GReddy Profec B spec II (Dec07)
    3-3.5in turbo-back exhaust with hi-flow cat (came with car)
    Apexi front / dump pipe (Jun10)
    Bosch 040 fuel pump (Dec07) DEAD
    Walbro fuel pump (May10)
    Sard 550cc injectors (to be installed Jul/Aug10)
    Apexi Power FC (to be installed Jul/Aug10)
    Yashio Factory copper radiator (Jun10)
    R33 9-blade radiator fan (Jun10)

Since I rely on the car to get to work every day and the engine's done 230,000km, I have kept things fairly tame. Only running 13psi at the moment, no plans to up it in the near future. Possibly a set of cams soon just to give a bit better response.

Updated June 2010: Now considering a turbo upgrade - but given that I want to keep lag to a minimum and have a responsive setup, I may just get some Greddy easy cams. With the Power FC and Sard 550s I've already got, plus a Z32 AFM, I should be able to get over the 200rwkw mark - probably more than enough for the time being.

 

 

INTERIOR


    Bride fixed back bucket seat & low-max rail (Dec09)
    RaceTech oil temp, water temp & boost gauges (Feb10)
    Fire extinguisher mounted where glove box used to be (Aug09)
    RPM 4-point 2in-belt harness (Feb10)
    Drift shift light (Feb11)
    ABS kill switch (Mar11)
    Remote hi/low boost toggle switch (Mar11)

 

DRIVETRAIN


    KAAZ 1.5way LSD (Oct09)
    Exedy Heavy Duty Cushion Button Clutch (Nov09)
    Exedy lightweight flywheel (Nov09)

 

SUSPENSION


    BC Coilovers (Jul09)
    Front strut brace (came with car)
    Selbys 22mm adjustable rear swaybar (Sep09)
    Selbys 27mm adjustable front swaybar (Sep09)
    Rose-jointed front swaybar links (to be installed Jun10)
    Cazman adjustable caster arms (Jun10)
    Aluminium subframe bushes (Dec07)

At present, I don't have the front swaybar in, so I've got the rear set to 'soft'. I'm quite surprised that it's still very manageabnle even when pushing it around corners - with standard front swaybar and 22mm rear I was expecting it to just about want to spin as soon as it got some lateral load into it. Hoping by putting the front swaybar in set to soft and changing the rear to hard I'll have roughly the same balance but better turn-in response.

Updated June 2010: Swaybars have been in for some time now. Probably need to set it to full stiff at the front, and soft at the rear - last track day I did at Winton I was struggling to get power down out of the corners even with the 255 RSRs. Having had the BC coilovers for some time now, I can say that I'm very happy with them. Perhaps a little too stiff for a daily on Melbourne's roads, but the dampers seem to do their job quite well.

 

BRAKES


    EBC Redstuff pads front/rear (Jul09)
    RDA slotted rotors front/rear (Jul09)
    Braided lines front/rear (Jul09)
    Mastser cyl stopper (came with car)

Quite happy with this combo, only problem at the moment is the pedal feel isn't the best. Not sure if that's because I've retained the ABS, or just because I need fresh fluid and a bleed... Not soo sure how they'll hold up on higher-speed tracks though. Also considering installing a bias bar that I can adjust in-cabin.

Updated June 2010: Still running the EBC redstuff, but have a full car set of QFM pads ready to go in when they are done with. Had some significant brake fade at the last Winton day (fluid got too hot, not pads) - hoping to rectify with some fresh fluid and some shielding around the ABS unit. Probably something I should have tended to a long time ago.

 

 

WHEELS & TYRES


    Black Racing Pro N1s; 17x8.0, ~+35 front and rear (came with car)
    -->Federal 595SS, 235/45/17 front and rear (soon to change tyre, probably same sizes)
    Enkei RPF1s; 17x9.0 +22 front, 17x9.5 +18 rear
    -->Federal RS-R, 235/45/17 front, 255/40/17 rear

 

I've had to add in a set of 8mm slip-ons with the Black Racing wheels since putting the coilovers in as they interferred with the rims. Will definitely be investing more in tyres in the future too.

Updated Jun 2010: Have been running the Enkeis wrapped in Federal RSR rubber for about 5 months now. Not 100% sure if I'd go the RSRs again... they do seem to grip quite well, but at the last Winton day I did it felt like they were overheating and losing grip after being pushed for a few laps. On the other hand, they seem to have about as much grip in the wet as the 595s did in the dry - but once they let go, it's hard to get that grip back. I can however say that they do seem to be quite forgiving in the dry, despite my little incident at Calder.

 

 

 

EXTERIOR

Standard, aside from having no front grille or spoiler. Grille came out when the cooler went in, some clips broke and I don't think it looks horrible without it so it's not going back in any time soon. Will consider adding a wing and front splitter later down the line if I do wind up spending much time at PI or Sandown.

Updated June 2010: Hoping to work on that aero soon. Possibly using some high-density expanded foam sandwiched between aluminium sheets for a front diffuser, (in theory) to give a lightweight and rigid structure without the exuberant cost of carbon fibre. Hopefully some kind of aluminium diffuser in the next 6 months or so as well, but let's not hold our breath on that one. Also would love to get a decent wing for track days, but costs for tested products seem to be a little high for me at the moment.

 

 

TO DO LIST (short term - updated June 2010)


    z32 AFM
    Tune
    Nismo engine mounts

25511_108992282461833_100000531853766_158096_7modjpg.jpg

Edited by D-train

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your car looks familiar... I always see it in my street :S

 

Get the cams!!!!!!!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

good to see another series 1 reppin on the track :thumbsup:

 

how do you find the Federals? are they the top of the range semis?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

isnt lower better for track purposes/circuit so theres less roll ...

cos i want a car that can take corners without so much roll :blush:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very clean S1. Just how they should be.

 

I'd also like to know how the BC coilys stack up on the track.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice to see this car still going and getting a circuit work out, I used to see it around a fair bit a few years back.

 

At present, I don't have the front swaybar in, so I've got the rear set to 'soft'. I'm quite surprised that it's still very manageabnle even when pushing it around corners - with standard front swaybar and 22mm rear I was expecting it to just about want to spin as soon as it got some lateral load into it. Hoping by putting the front swaybar in set to soft and changing the rear to hard I'll have roughly the same balance but better turn-in response.

Interesting, so you were running a stock front swaybar with an adj. rear in that vid? I run the opposite pretty much, adj. front (set to medium) with standard rear. Keen to see more footage when you have your adj. front sway fitted and setup how you want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your car looks familiar... I always see it in my street :S

 

Get the cams!!!!!!!!!!!!

Doesn't look like I'll have enought time to buy the cams, get them shipped and put them in before Haunted Hills... :S

 

good to see another series 1 reppin on the track :thumbsup:

 

how do you find the Federals? are they the top of the range semis?

I'm running the 595SS Federals - definitely not the top of the range stuff. I think they're a performance-oriented street tyre, and they're quite cheap ($120/tyre from memory?) so in terms of bang-for-buck they're ok, but really I think I need to step my tyre choices up a notch. Probably looking to spend ~$300/tyre next time - maybe a little more depending on what can be had for that kinda money - should start looking into that I guess.

 

isnt lower better for track purposes/circuit so theres less roll ...

cos i want a car that can take corners without so much roll :blush:

You're not wrong, but it's not as simple as "lowest = best" when it comes to track performance. A lower car will have a lower centre of gravity, which means less load transfer (from the inside tyres to the outside), which basically results in more grip. The problem is that to do this you usually have to change the suspension geometry, and that sacrifices things like your camber curves (how much camber the wheel has as it moves up/down relative to the chassis). I won't go into it any further (pretty sure the height vs performance thing has been done to death) except to say that you can reduce roll other ways - for example, stiffer swaybars. With stiffer swaybars the car will PHYSICALLY roll less, which is good, but you still have the same amount of load transfer.

 

wat wheels are you planning on gettin

and how do the bc racing coilys rate on the track

Thinking about some black CR-KAIs, haven't decided for sure yet though.

 

Very clean S1. Just how they should be.

 

I'd also like to know how the BC coilys stack up on the track.

I'm probably not gonna be very useful here - they're the only coilovers I've ever driven on the track. The previous owner had standard shocks with lowered springs, so needless to say they were a lot better than that - the wheels are just so much more controlled when going over bumps, or when the car rolls, or... does anything, pretty much. For the price, I'm definitely not complaining.

 

Nice to see this car still going and getting a circuit work out, I used to see it around a fair bit a few years back.

 

At present, I don't have the front swaybar in, so I've got the rear set to 'soft'. I'm quite surprised that it's still very manageabnle even when pushing it around corners - with standard front swaybar and 22mm rear I was expecting it to just about want to spin as soon as it got some lateral load into it. Hoping by putting the front swaybar in set to soft and changing the rear to hard I'll have roughly the same balance but better turn-in response.

Interesting, so you were running a stock front swaybar with an adj. rear in that vid? I run the opposite pretty much, adj. front (set to medium) with standard rear. Keen to see more footage when you have your adj. front sway fitted and setup how you want.

Sorry, should probably have been a bit clearer on that - I was running the coilovers but standard swaybars at the front AND rear in the video. It was only last week that the rear swaybar went in.

The front is in now too - I've changed the rear to 'hard' and the front to 'soft', and it feels pretty good, but I won't really know until I've had a chance to thrash it around a track. I'd HIGHLY reccommend getting an aftermarket rear swaybar, it's a real breath of life into the handling IMO - or at least it seemed to work wonders for my setup.

 

Cheers for the comments guys, hopefully I'll have another vid up in a fortnight's time from Haunted Hills. Speaking of which, anyone here driven HH before and got times?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lookin good man, the impuls look great on it. how do you rate the bc coils? mate of mine is looking at coils and is thinking of going bc's.

 

and you should buy my spoiler. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're not wrong, but it's not as simple as "lowest = best" when itcomes to track performance. A lower car will have a lower centre ofgravity, which means less load transfer (from the inside tyres to theoutside), which basically results in more grip. The problem is that todo this you usually have to change the suspension geometry, and thatsacrifices things like your camber curves (how much camber the wheelhas as it moves up/down relative to the chassis). I won't go into itany further (pretty sure the height vs performance thing has been doneto death) except to say that you can reduce roll other ways - forexample, stiffer swaybars. With stiffer swaybars the car willPHYSICALLY roll less, which is good, but you still have the same amountof load transfer.

 

load mean when your turning you feel like its gonna tip :blush:kinda new too all this

i know too stiff will just make it kick out every corner

hmmm i guess you should do swaybars and all after all its still a daily and dont wanna be scraping everywhere

anyway any future mods you wanna do

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More fun on closed circuits:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMHNmJPNVhY

In-car footage from the Driver Dynamics day at Haunted Hills last Saturday.

 

anyway any future mods you wanna do

 

As you can probably hear in the vid above, I think a 1.5way LSD would probably be a good idea next! Cams just may have to wait. Oh, and new wheels, hopefully 17x9s. Still debating on what to get, but it's looking like either black CR-Kais or gunmetal grey (or similar) gram lights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kaaz 1.5 way LSD has been purchased & installed :thumbsup: MUCH better!

Thanks to Waz and Rob for help with the install!

 

Was hoping to get some SSR Type Cs, 17x9 F and 17x10 R, but they don't make the 9s in good offsets! Now considering getting Enkei RPF-01s and powdercoating black... maybe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, nice videos too :) I was gonna suggest an lsd before I saw that last post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah it sounded very much like you needed an LSD. Glad to see you've addressed this problem :)

 

That last vid looks heaps fun!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, Haunted Hills was a blast. Probably should have posted more on that. So here is more.

 

First of all, the DriverDynamics days are very convenient and great value. $130 including lunch, and all you need is a car and a helmet. Plenty of track time too. I do wish laps were timed but you can't have it all, and it wasn't full laps of the circuit anyway.

 

First lap(s) out, you had to have an instructor in the passenger seat with you (though Rob avoided that somehow!) - I think the first one to jump in was Sam? I felt like an absolute hack to be honest - not knowing the track at all besides having walked it about half an hour beforehand, I was taking it very, Very, VERY gingerly. With all the crests and blind corners it's a very intimidating track. After a good few laps I got another instructor (Danny) and got some good pointers. I took the passenger seat for one run and let him show me the lines a bit more clearly, which was a big help - probably helped him to help me too, as after that he knew what I was working with. We came to the (fairly obvious!) conclusion that the car was struggling with traction, and decided to soften the rear swaybar and drop the rear tyre pressures a bit. That helped a lot, but as can be seen in the vid the diff and tyres were still the weakest link.

 

There was a guy in a nice RX-8 with a pretty sweet logging setup:

I'm thinking about basically copying what he's got, looking at his blog it's pretty cost effective too.

 

After the diff install on the weekend, I tried on some TE37s to check what sizes would suit my car. Seems to me that 17x9 +15 sits pretty schmick at the front, and 17x10 +15 should be OK for the rear... (the test wheel was a 17x9 +15)

 

img0323modv.jpgimg0324modm.jpg

 

img0320moda.jpgimg0321modc.jpg

 

AAAAAAAUGH WHY CAN'T SSR MAKE 17x9 TYPE Cs WITH DECENT OFFSET?!?!?

 

Jerks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

how much did you pay for the car? im looking into setting a series 1 s14 within a few months, just wondering they can be found cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Paid about $13,000 from memory - bought it around Sept/Oct 2007. Car was standard apart from lowered springs, the wheels, BMC stopper and strut brace, 180,000 km on the clock, very clean inside and out and no mechanical woes. I was originally looking for an s13 but found one or two s14s in my price range, thought it'd be the better option. It was pretty much the interior that sealed the deal for me - just that bit more modern, and since it's where I spend most of my time when I'm with the car it stood out as something I should probably be happy with... Definitely glad I picked S14 over S13. I think it attracts a lot less attention from the police too - in the 2 years I've had it (most of the time with the aftermarket exhaust and lowered springs) I've never been pulled over (touch wood).

 

But back to your original question, take a look around on carsales.com.au, they seem to be quite a bit cheaper these days than when I was looking (~9-10k). I was checking it out a while ago as I was considering selling, but that idea has been scrapped.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

17x10 +15 will fit great on the rear. All you will need is to hammer out your guard lips and a pole roll/newspaper pull. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

17x10 +15 will fit great on the rear. All you will need is to hammer out your guard lips and a pole roll/newspaper pull. :thumbsup:

 

What tyre size is that with? I'm hoping to run 255s, maybe 265s. I'd rather not do any guard work, but I want to keep offsets the same front and rear - and with the BC coilovers it'll have to be ~+15 otherwise the front tyres hit the coilover...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

LOL with 255s you will definitely need guard work. Guard work is easy, borrow a heat gun and a rubber mallet and you'll be laughing. It's either that, raise you car or scrub the crap out of your tyres.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just found a great thread that's given me a bit of insight into what tyres/wheels I can fit:

 

Maximum rubber thread

 

It's probably been posted on here before but hey, it's relevant.

 

Now where did I put that budget...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

intersting link

 

are we seeing the first signs of stretch and fitment losing its cool??

 

are baggy tyres the next big fad? already see "anti stretch nazi" in there... :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, it's for circuit racers and people who want grip.

 

Dwayne, note how those 14's all have guard work done ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah - and the more I look at some of those pics the less I care about whether or not I have to roll guards... hm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

really nice man, love the way it is coming up.

i managed to fit a 245/40 on a 18x10.5 +22 on the rear of my s14 with -.5 deg camber with about a 10mm flare. so i would say go a 10 +25 on the rear and a 9 +15 on the front.

 

really wish i had have know about the day at haunted hills, as i live like 20mins away and would have came up for a look

 

also i have a pair of 17x9.5 +12 TE37s for sale if your interested

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They're doing another on the 28th of November, I'm booked in already :thumbsup:

 

Very interested to see the difference with the 1.5way. Doesn't look like I'll be rolling on new rubber by then though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...alas, a mere 3 days before I intend to hit the track next, my clutch decides to pack it in... I think?

 

It feels fine when driving normally, but this morning i was doing about 90 in 5th and put my foot all the way down, and the revs started climbing REAL fast... I tried to make it slip again later on just to be sure (80km/h in 3rd, full throttle & on the brakes to keep constant speed), but it seemed fine. To be safe (I've been worried about the damn clutch for a while now), I'm gonna get an Exedy HD cushion button clutch + lightweight flywheel installed before Saturday. Well, that's the plan at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cutting it fine. already spoken to pinkie about this. exedy distribution center is down your way + supercheap have an account.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×