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ActionDan

Camber Wear and thoughts on spacers

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Firstly, I'm assuming this is a sign of not enough camber?

 

IMG_20150425_160443.jpg

 

Car is a Silvia and has this setup with BC BR 8/6kg coilovers. Whiteline front swaybar 27mm, r32 gt-r rear swaybar. Stock castor arms. S15 rack/tie rods and gktech rear toe arms.

 

Driver: -2.75/1mm toe out

Pass: -2.75/1mm toe out

 

Rear- Camber/Toe

Driver: - 1.3/1mm toe in

Pass: -1.3/1mm toe in

 

Tyres are 595 RS-Rs

 

2 questions.

 

If I do need more camber, what's the easiest way to get it front and rear. Strut tops are maxed at front and I was going to raise the car a little to help get LCA's parallel and improve roll centres which means I'll lose a bit of camber.

 

I may get a little more camber in the rear but not much as the rear passenger side is closed to maxed due to what I suspect is bent hub. I was thinking either adjustable LCA bush for the front or slotting the shock mount hole. Not much I can do in the rear besides fix hub?

 

Also, spacers. Front wheels are close to shock, if I need more camber I'll need more clearance. Is a 10mm spacer front and rear going to be OK? If so what do I need to know about buying them? Stick with hub centric?

 

Or am I better off with something like this?

 

http://www.gktech.co...ic-spacers.html

Edited by ActionDan

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You can drill new mounting holes on the front subframe for the inner LCA, 10mm further out and 10mm(?) up, giving wider track and better lca angle.

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After more reading it seems I won't need spacers anyway as I had misunderstood how the LCA bush adjustment will work, so if it clears now it will stay cleared.

 

That said, does that look like camber wear to you? I have a infra red gun on the way also.

 

I can drill the LCA, but those bushes are cheap and don't require dodgy drilling.

 

Out of curiosity, why 10mm up also?

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Just slot the upper bottom coilover mount hole on the front. Mine have never moved...

 

If you only want 10mm spacers, GKtech to a 10mm slip on hubcentric. Use extended studs obviously. I've used slip on and bolt on, hub centric and non, haven't had any issues with any of them. Torque nuts correctly and either is fine.

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If I adjust camber at that point I'll need spacers,as I understand it I can get the offset whiteline bushes and adjust from the LCA instead and not need the spacers - which I'd prefer,

Edited by ActionDan

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Geeze those bushes are expensive. And you will hate life when it comes to adjusting them too. May as well spend 200 and get proper adjustable camber arms.

 

And as above just drill the lca mount out further.

 

Really isn't going to hurt to run adjustable caster arms too.

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I have camber arms in the rear and adjustable tops in the front (on max).

 

I've been chatting with sc s15 in my build thread and I'll be going caster arms in the front and address camber after I change the ride height and see what I'm left with.

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Ah, i didn't realise. Don't bother with the bushes anyway. Can slot the rear camber arms if you have the room to do so

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Ah, i didn't realise. Don't bother with the bushes anyway. Can slot the rear camber arms if you have the room to do so

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You can drill new mounting holes on the front subframe for the inner LCA, 10mm further out and 10mm(?) up, giving wider track and better lca angle.

 

Is this for real? I never really paid attention to the blank space on the LCA mounts. Oh man you're giving me ideas now.

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As only 10mm of metal will separate those two holes on one side of the hole.

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As only 10mm of metal will separate those two holes on one side of the hole.

 

it would be 2mm steel on both sides of the LCA mount, plus the pressure / drag from the bolt / nut sandwiching the bush. it will not rip through, if you create enough force to do it, you're fcuked anyway and the subframe is the least of your worries.

 

the only downside doing what i said is the possibility of introducing bind into the inner bush.

Edited by r0berto

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I have hi centric spacers if u want them. I ran 20mm of spacers to get my wheel out further to run more camber. I can't see how your maxed out at 2.7 with cambertops. I was running up to 4.5 with my cambertops and wheel pushed right in. Is the top hole on the shock that bolts to the knuckle elongated?

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Regardless of where they are you should be able to get more with camber tops and the big ol hole!

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