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As nice as the stock silvia bars are, the positioning and Jap-spec number plate brackets let them down. The plate hangs too low and doesn't align with the plastic border; bad airflow combined with bad fitment. You could buy a personalised slimline plate, but that doesn't fix the alignment, the government now has your beer money, and you look like a fag. Mounting the plate to one side will get you an emissions test, so why not just jack it up? Difficulty = 2 Where 0 is driving into the pits, and 10 is having them measure your ride height with +/-10cm accuracy. Time Required = 1 hour Disclaimer Don't cut off your hand or fingers. Tools Required Pen 3mm aluminium plate Number plate Drill and a range of metric drill bits Angle grinder with 1mm disc Safety gear (gloves/mask/goggles/apron) Aluminium oxide sandpaper (wet & dry) Usage Increased airflow Visually impoved fitment Decapitating falling midgets Process Step 1. Remove the front number plate, and determine by how much you want to raise it up. I raised the plate by 60mm, hence I drilled a second set of holes 60mm lower on the aluminium sheet than those traced from the number plate. Step 2. Trace the outside and holes of the number plate onto the aluminium sheet. For my generic yellow NSW plate, I made the sheet the full length (370mm), but only 100mm in width (so I can fit other plates if needed). The mount holes were 80mm from the edges (6mm holes all round). Step 3. Cut the outside markings of the aluminium sheet. Step 4. Drill 6mm holes for all the holes in the top and center. Drilling all the holes can give you better mounting options should you ever change plates. Step 5. Champher the holes using a larger drill bit, or a countersinking bit. Step 6. Sand the aluminium sheet smooth, sanding in only one direction for a brushed alloy look. Ensure the corners are sanded smooth, with a little curve to avoid careless injuries. Step 7. Test fit the alloy sheet to the bumper, using bolts with low-profile heads. Step 8. Fit the number plate using a short bolt with a locking-nut. By raising my plate 6cms, the nut on the back easily clears the paint of the bar.
ISC Performance posted a topic in Latest Parts from our SponsorsWe have recently introduced this newly designed tube and fin intercooler kits into our large range of products. The intercooler itself is approx 40% lighter then another style of cooler (bar and plate). Each intercooler is polished and pressure tested after manufacturing to assure the highest level of quality for our customers. The core is also desinged with an oval tube to increase air flow and reduce turbulence making the cooling more efficient and better for over all performance. The intercooler kits include a "tube and fin core" along with polished pipe work, clamps, brackets, silicon hoses, zip ties, washers, nuts, bolts and basically anything else needed for installation. Kits are available for: Skyline R32gtst = $499 Skyline R33gtst = $499 Skyline R34gtt = $499 Silvia S13 (sr20det) = $499 Silvia S14 = $499 Silvia S15 = $499 SALE PRICE $399 LIMITED TIME