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Hey guys, long time lurker first time poster. Long story short my S13 SR20DE alternator died recently and I was pretty bummed, the car lost a lot of power in the high RPMs and would make a static buzzing/crackle down near the fuse box on the driver side kick panel. I looked erratically for a decent S13 alternator but couldn't find one in my area for cheap enough, but I did find an S15 alternator for $80. I researched it a lot and couldn't find any concrete answer so I just bit the bullet and bought it. The answer is yes: It works - It literally bolted straight in, using the stock S13 mouting brackets, belt and loom. S15 on left and S13 on right As you can see the size and position of the mounts are identical. The positions of the plug and positive lug are swapped on the S15, but everything still plugs in correctly. The positive lug on the S15 is thicker than the S13 - The only modification required to fit an S15 alternator is drilling of the eyelet from the loom. Takes 30 seconds. Plugs identical, direct fit. Same height Pulleys identical in diameter/depth Aaaaand picture of my engine bay for good measure. So all in all, S15 alternator is direct swap for S13, and makes an extra 10A over the S13, so easy upgrade. Cheers
When the alternator pulley removal process is raised, many people advise to wrap it in a rag or rubber belt, clamp it with vice grips, tighten the pulley belt, etc. If don't have a rattle gun and you can afford to remove it from the car, then there is a better way. The outer coil and the inner rotor of an alternator are separate pieces, with the shaft the pulley bolts onto being joined with the rotor. All you have to do is disassemble it and stick it in a bigass vice. Difficulty = 4 Where 10 is rebuilding an engine, and 0 is ripping a dry fart. Time Required = 15 minutes + removal + installation If painting the alternator, it will take a little longer. I painted mine a terracotta colour, as you do. Tools Required Two small allen keys or rods Bigass vice Philips #1 screwdriver 1/2" ratcket 12, 14, 24mm socket Process Step 1. Remove the alternator from the car. Refer to the Service Manual if you're unsure of the process. Step 2. Remove the outer four retention bolts, and gently tap the alternator to separate the rotor from the coil. Step 3. Secure the fixed magnet of the rotor in a bigass vice with serrated plates. Use the least amount of force required to secure it, as too much can cause cracks. Step 4. Remove the pulley with a socket driver, install the new one and torque to suit. With this method you have the option of using a torque wrench if desired. Step 5. Select the coil housing and remove the rubber plug at the back. Step 6. Flip the coil cover over and locate the brushes in the bottom. Depress the brushes using a small allen key (or similar), and hold in that position. Insert another allen key through the exposed hole on the back, and adjust the brushes until the allen key on the back slots through them (the brushes have a hole in them for this purpose). Step 7. Put the alternator back together (taking care to align the mount tabs correctly) and bolt everything down. Be sure to gradually tighten all bolts equally as you go, then remove the allen key from the back once finished. Insert the rubber plug as best you can. Step 8. Reinstall the alternator and back in the glory of your lighter, funkier pulley.
I have an s12 Gazelle running a ca20 engine (crap engine i know) when car runs, voltage guage sits at 14 volts, under load (lights, demister, even indicator), voltage drops, can even cause car to stall. I have replaced alternator but same problem. Any ideas