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Found 47 results

  1. Nismo Key KEY01-RN008

    I have a rare nismo key that I never used up for sale $500 obo
  2. Rays Nismo LMGT3 Set

    I have a set of Rays Nismo LMGT3s for sale, they came off my S14 200SX when I unfortunately had to sell the car. All round decent condition, all wheels have some curb rash, worst of which is pictured. All have centrecaps. Fronts: 17x8 offset + 36, wrapped in Hankook Ventus R-S3 235/45 Rears: 17x9 offset + 38, wrapped in Hankook Ventus R-S3 245/40 $1600 ONO Inspections welcome. Can ship at buyer's expense. All reasonable offers considered, no trades. Located in Melbourne Area, can arrange meeting in Geelong also
  3. Having recently done a RB box conversion I am looking at doing a flex tune upgrade on my car in the not too distant future. Currently running a nistune with a set of nismo 740cc injectors and a walbro 460 Turbo setup is a precision HP5130 and I am running un1cams +springs Car is currently making 310hp @ the wheels on a "safe" 98 tune I know everyone is going to tell me to throw out the 740s and go top feed etc, however I was wondering if anyone on here has seen how far the Nismo 740s can be pushed on E85 with a bit of help from a fuel pressure regulator ? Not wanting to go top feed I guess the other option is to go some five O 1200cc side feeds which seem to work ok for the SR20 but are rubbish when it comes to RB engines. I'm thinking that Dose pipe might be the man with the most nistune flex experience who is active on the forums so any input would be appreciated
  4. Item: sr20 5spd nismo super coppermix clutch and flywheel Description: Just changed to a npc 10" for peace of mind because I wasn't sure what came with the car when I bought it. turns out it's a super coppermix with plenty of meat left on it and I never had any issues with it. They're rebuildable too if it ever comes to it. Comes with clutch and flywheel. Price: 600 ono Location: SE Melb Willing to post?: Prefer not Contact: PM me through here with your number
  5. Nismo Wheel Nut Set

    I've got a set of genuine NISMO extended wheel nuts for sale. The extended wheel nuts are 50mm and come in a set of 20. The are a 7 sided nut and come with a lock nut key. These are virtually brand new. I've only test fitted them only. $160 + postage. PM if you're interested.
  6. Item: Nismo Engine & Gearbox Mounts - Nissan 200SX/Silvia S14 - NEW - SOLD Description: Nismo Engine & Gearbox Mounts - Nissan 200SX / Silvia S14 Purchased a few years ago but never fitted. Included: - LHS Engine Mount - Genuine Nismo Part - Part No: 11220-RS540 - RHS Engine Mount - Genuine Nismo Part - Part No: 11210-RS540 - Gearbox Mount with original box - Genuine Nismo Part - Part No: 11320-RS541 These items may also fit the following vehicles but please check the part numbers and do your own research: - Nissan 180SX - Nissan PS13 - Nissan RPS13 - Nissan S14 200SX - Nissan S15 200SX Price: $350$300 Location: Ferntree Gully, Victoria Willing to post?: YES Contact: Dave 0407 192 887
  7. JDM S15, 2000, Spec R

    2000 JDM Nissan Silvia (S15) Manual Spec R Pewter 150xxxkms $12,500 NO SWAPS. I've had this car for 10 years, it was bought as my weekender with large plans but never ended up eventuating and I now start and drive it around the block a few times once a week. The car is NOT registered. I've only got some older photos, but the car looks the same as in the photos. So about the car... Engine SR20DET VCT T28 Ball Bearing (allegedly 'high-flowed' by the previous owner, no idea what this actually means performance wise and if it's even true, but it pulls hard). Braided turbo lines with speedflow fittings Splitfire coil packs Drift SS POD & custom heat sheild Custom SS intake pipe Hybrid GT Front mount Intercooler w/ custom made SS intercooler piping Custom made 3" SS turbo back exhaust Magnaflow hi-flow cat Genuine Walbro GSS342/341 255LPH (500 HP) Fuel Pump SS Exhaust Manifold Blue Rocker & Fuse Cover (I think this looks terrible, but it was like that when I bought it. Meh). Electronics Blitz Dual Electronic SBC Apexi Pen TurboTimer Gizzmo Dual Stage shift light Interior Moonface Gearknob Bride Gias Low Max style seats – Driver and passenger Genuine Bride Rails Carbon Fibre background for cluster Chrome cluster rings Drift BlackFace boost gauge (fitted in factory a-pillar) Audio Kenwood double din DVD/TV/Sat Nav/Bluetooth player (TV/Sat Nav/Bluetooth not connected) 2x Kenwood 4” front speakers 2x Kenwood tweeters 2x Kenwood 6x9’s in the rear 2 x Kenwood amps 2x 10” Kenwood subs Gearbox & Drivetrain 6 speed manual Excedy lightweight flywheel & heavy duty clutch – No dual mass Wheels & suspension Lenso Widetrack 18x8 all around HSD HR coilovers Polyutherane bushes Brakes RDA Slotted & Dimpled Rotors F&R Motul RBF 600 Fluid EBC Greenstuff pads F&R Exterior Nismo clear side indicators C-West side skirts Rear wing removed and holes plugged (not welded & painted) I have both the standard and a smoker pair of taillights, the buyer can have both. Other I have a large amount of aftermarket parts that aren’t fitted to the car that I will potentially include in the sale pending discussion, these include but aren’t limited too; -ADR approved braided brake lines. -ADR approved braided clutch line. -Full Vertex widemouth style bodykit (same kit that the NS.com car has). -ECC 3” SS blast pipes. -StreetForced fully built head inc; HKS step 2 cams, Port & polish, Port enlarging (exhaust side), Balance, Greddy cam gears, Titanium retainers, Upgrade valves/valve springs etc. -StreetForced 2.3 ltr bottom end (bored & stroked) & cooling upgrades – this is still in the build process with StreetForced, but I’ve spent about 7K in parts & machining so far, which I will discuss transferring to the buyer if they want it.
  8. WTB S13 AERO REAR PODS

    Hey guys, I need some S13 rear pods. I have cash waiting just need someone with them. If you maybe want to sell them but you're not sure just message me money will change your mind when its in your bank ahah. i've been looking for months, someone has to have a set. Thankkkkzzz
  9. FOR SALE: Garrett 3071 turbo Sitting on s15 stock manifold with 44mm Tial External gate welded onto the manifold. 1k for turbo, manifold and gate (will sell seperate) inbox for price Varex - Twin 3" inlet twin 3" outlet muffler. Comes complete with all wiring, 2 remotes. $200 4x Nismo 740cc Injectors 100% working order. $450 Tomei CAMS Tomei Drop in cams 256/264 $500 Can provide more picture or information on request. Contact me on 0431 three three three 595 or via pm
  10. This is a how-to on changing engine and gearbox mounts on an s15 sr20det manual. It is a very similar process to all other s chassis models. I used Nismo mounts all round. Your experience may differ. I am not liable for your f**k ups, please be sensible, think first, safety first. If i've forgotten anything, let me know and i'll update the thread. First start by getting the car up on 4 jack stands, higher the better. Rear stands under subframe, front stands under the chassis rails with a block of wood between the two to avoid chassis damage. (Old photo, i know the front stands aren't on the chassis rails but you get the idea). Start with the passenger side (LHS / turbo side). The mount is hidden under all this stuff. Remove the intake pipe, cooler pipe, hoses, and turbo intake snout if necessary. Remove the strut brace if you have one. You can now see the mount. Undo the two nuts on the top of the mount. The mount stud through the engien bracket is a 14mm nut. The other is a 12mm nut that secures a heat shield. Now move over to the drivers side (RHS). Start by removing the intake manifold support bracket. 2 x 14mm bolts on top (on the intake runners) and 1 x 14mm bolt on the bottom near the starter motor. Push the bracket to the side (its still attached with wiring). Undo the top two nuts on the mount. 14mm for the mount stud, and 12mm for the stud holding a bracket to the mount. Get under the car and undo the bottom nut on both LHS and RHS mounts. It is a single 14mm bolt on each. With the mounts now unbolted but still sandwhiched between the engine and the chassis, its time to jack up the engine. Do this by using your trolley jack and a block of wood and carefully jack up the engine until it hits the chassis tunnel. Be careful not to lift the whole car doing this. If you have a stock sump pan, you can jack from here with a braod bit of wood but this is a shit way of doing it. You are better off jacking from the bellhousing where it meets the engine. This is especially important for cast alloy sumps! NOTE: this pic is not accurate obviously, it should be closer to the engine. Although there is now wiggle room you won't be able to pull the mounts out yet, there is not enough room to remove them because of the stud length. Undo the engine subframe nuts, 4 x 17mm (2 on each side). Take them off completely, dont worry the subframe won't drop on your face. My car is relatively low, so the suspension was pulling the subframe upwards against the chassis. Using a big screw driver and/or pry bar, lever the subframe down and jam a fat chisel (or similar) in between the chassis and the subframe. Back up top you should now have room to slip out the old engine mount. Turbo side (LHS) will have a heat shield, slip this onto your new mount. Squeeze the mount into position, take note of the correct orientation and the alignment tab on the bottom. The cold side (drivers side / RHS) is tight. You will need to move the fuel filter and lines, and the support bracket to the side (the bracket you removed earlier). Maneuver the mount out, take it out through the top where the fuel filter usually sits. New one goes back in the same way. With the mounts now in (but not bolted on) raise the subframe and tighten the 4 x 17mm nuts you removed earlier. Lower the engine a little bit, slowly. Align the tabs on the bottom of the mounts, and slowly drop the engine fully. Do the engine mount nuts up only a few threads, leave lots of space (don't tighten all the way). Move down to the gearbox mount / cross member. Jack up the rear of the gearbox to take the load off the cross member. Undo the bolts that attach the gearbox to the mount (14mm), undo the exhaust support bracket from the mount (12mm nuts). Undo the mount from the cross member (12mm nuts). Remove the cross member bolts (4 x 17mm bolts). My exhaust ran right over one of the bolts, FML. In that case, you can probably get away with what I did, undo the front pipe-to-cat flange, push the now loose-ish front pipe out of the way and get a socket on the last crossmember bolt. My awesome DEI carbon fibre look 'titanium' heat wrap got shredded doing this, its a tight fit with the socket Drop the cross member, swap mount, reinstall opposite to the above. When the gearbox / mount / crossmember is all back together tight, reattached your exhaust with sealant or a new gasket (if this was removed). Un-jack the gearbox, this side should all be done. It is now time to tighten the engine mounts fully. 14mm nut on bottom, and 14mm + 12mm nuts on top for both. Move back up top and reinstall all the intake pipes removed earlier, you may want to use sealant on the turbo intake snout to avoid leaks. You're pretty much done. Go around to every area you worked on and check every nut, you dont want any of this stuff coming loose. You have probably left tools in your engine bay too. Take the car off the stands and take it for a drive. With Nismo mounts I did not have an issue with strut brace clearance. The engine did sit higher but only because the old mount was collapsed and sagging. All engine mounts will settle, give it a month or so. I'm hoping NVH will subside in that time, to some extent, because it's worse than I thought it would be. Only noticeable on idle though. Gear changes are much nicer, the car feels a lot more solid, take off from stopped / stationary is much nicer with the Ogura single plate. To conclude, this is a relatively easy job. I don't understand why people complain about it. Very satisfying end results.
  11. WTB: S13 2-SLAT GRILLE & PODS

    Hey guys n gals! i was hoping someone out there had a genuine 2-slat grille for an s13 if you do or your friend does i WILL pay whatever you want. i need a genuine one!!! also pods! i need a set and will pay a good price for good conditioned s13 aero pods! Thanks!!
  12. Hey Guys, Got a couple of items up for grabs. Prices are negotiable, so please make an offer if you would like Item: S15 Silvia Nismo R-Tune Coilovers Rear Pair **SOLD** Item: S15 Silvia Dash Trim Piece (Steering Wheel Surround) **SOLD**
  13. Hi guys Up for sale are some parts I no longer need that don't suite my power goals. All is in very good condition and inspections are welcomed! I'm located in the northern suburbs Thomastown Contact my either via PM, SMS on 0433 824 600 or email at monittosan@gmail.com Regards, Rob HKS GT-RS turbo with HKS adjustable actuator. In very good condition with no shaft play and made 245rwkws on 20psi with stock cams. Can make upto 280rwkws with cams and e85 on 24psi. Also has: GKtech stanless manifold which i have ceramic coated and heat wrapped then coated again to seal the wrap. HKS suction hard piping. Die grinded section infront of turbine for smoother flow and VHT wrinkle coated AS PICTURED $1400 $1100 for turbo only ! S15 stock injectors 480cc $100 NISMO 740cc injectors $400 (fuel rail and regulator not included) HPI engine damper suites s14/s15 $120 HPI dump and front pipe Has been coated and heat wrapped $350 MFR bump steer tie rod ends/super LAP Suites the m14 tierod thread and a good upgrade if you are hitting the track and don't want to bend your tie rods on the ripple strips $120 SplitFire coilpacks set of 4 box not included $300 HKS twin power ignition amplifier with s15 loom $400 I was able to run a plug gap of 1.15mm at 21psi with the coils and hks amp combined. Gives noticeable gains in bottom end torque, fuel economy, idle quality and peak power. Exedy Carbon R single plate clutch kit with 6kg light weight flywheel. has a scratch in the carbon disc was removed before a turbo upgrade supported 240rwkws $400 ONO pair of s15 front fenders in Wk0 pearl white. Indicators not included Very good paint! $300 for the pair or 150 a side
  14. S13 Race/Drift Project

    So it begins ..
  15. Parts located in Wollongong, NSW. Prices are firm and for pickup. Can post smaller stuff at buyers expense. I try to reply quickly and clearly, lowballing or asking to post dumb shit makes me grumpy. This thread will be updated regularly, sold items removed and new items added. S13 brick passenger headlight $150 S13 OEM coolbox, no piping, $100 S13 rear control arms $40 each S13 NON HICAS rear knuckles $40 each S13 driver sode HICAS rear knuckle, hicas ball joint is rooted, $20 S13 SR20 clusters, 127000km and 222000km. $50 each S13 SR20 rocker covers. $50 each S13 SR20 3" stainless front pipe $50 S14 rear knuckles NON HICAS $40 each S15 ABS BM50 $100 S15 stock BOV $50 R32 GTS-T rear strut brace, $50 R32 GTR cluster, genuine 52,000km $150 R32 GTR RB26 nistune, $400 R34 GT-T front brakes (310x30mm rotors) $300 R34 GT-T ARC sidemount $300 R34 RB25 neo oil cooler. HKS thermostatic sandwich plate, and 19 row oil cooler. $400 pair of 20mm 5x114.3 bolt on spacers. $100 pair of 25mm 5x114.3 bolt on spacers. $100 Nismo SR20 Fuel Pressure Regulator brand new, removed from box to take a photo. $170 Synapse synchronic 50mm BOV. $350 Whiteline front swaybar, suits GTR's, stageas, and GTS-4 skylines. $200 HKS style 50mm waste gate $70 HKS super flow airfilter, used. $20 Power Enterprise PE1420 (IHI VN14) I bought from here in "excellent condition", found it has a crack through the ehxaust housing. Could be welded up and used with an external gate. Apparently made 210kw and full boost by 3600rpm. $500 Pimps steering wheel $100 SR20 cam gears, brand new. $100 RB cam gears (pair) $100 RB cam gears (1 adjustible + 1 stock)$50 RB pink label afm, $50 RB stock clutch 100 RB Nismo flywheel+RS650 clutch $500 RB 5 puck clutch $200 RB Xtreme HD clutch $200 RB pull type Xtreme clutch+flywheel $300 Nismo NS5R wheels. As used on the Nismo 270R 16x7.5 +32 2 brand new 205/55, 2 almost new 205/55 $550 Work Rezax Roars 17x8+35, 17x9+38 Shit 235/45 all round $500 ~~~ Picture stuff ~~~ S13/R32/Z32 toe arms $80 castor arms sold camber arms sold subframe collars sold S13 3" front pipe $50 S13 3" dump pipe $SOLD S13 rocker covers, $50 each S13 brick headlight, passenger side. mint condition. $150 S13 SR20 clusters one 122xxxkm, one 222xxxkm. $50 each RB25DET NEO oil cooler setup. HKS sandwich plate. $450 R32 GTR airbox with afm's $250 Xtreme Pull type RB clutch with flywheel $350 Nismo RB clutch with light flywheel $600 5puk clutch for RB $250 Xtreme push type clutch for RB $250 R34 GT-T calipers/rotors $300 S13 rear strut brace sold R32 JURAN rear strut brace $60 S13 6 bolt shafts $50 each S13 6 bolt shafts $50 each S13 good 5 bolt shaft $50 5 bolt shaft with a torn CV boot $20 S14/S15 rear knuckles $40 each R32 GTR cluster, genuine 52000km $200 R32 GTR nistune $500 R34 ARC sidemount $350 RB adjustible cam gear + 1 normal $50 RB adjustible cam gears $100 RB pink label afm $150 pair 5x114.3 20mm spacers $100 pair 5x114.3 25mm spacers $100 brand new SR adjustible cam gears $120 BM50 ABS $150 each HKS style 50mm gate with screamer $50 HKS used super power flow filter $20 genuine pimp deep dish steering wheel $100 Synapse 50mm wastegate $300 Power Enterprise PE1420 aka IHI VN14. Bought off here in "excellent condition", has a crack in the rear housing going through the wastegate flap. Could be welded shut and used with external gate, or used as is. Apparently made 210kw and 20psi by 3600rpm as is. No shaft play, never used it as I bought a HKS unit the next day. $500 Work Rezax Roars. 5x114.3 17x8 +35, 17x9 +38 235/45/17 all round, suit skids $500 firm S13 drivers window switches, working condition $50 each S13 Coolbox. No piping. $100 Nismo NS5R from a 270R. 5x114.3 16x7.5 +32 2 brand new 205/55/16, 2 205/55/16 with 30 minutes drive time. (picture is with 205/45/16, has much more sensible sidewall now) $550 firm
  16. Want to buy: Genuine PLASTIC Nismo Aero rear Pods to suit s13 only Must be good condition Will pay any price Location, Brisbane area, Australia; will travel URGENT contact me : 0424500266
  17. These wheels are the real deal..!! Genuine forged monoblock wheels made by Rays Engineering, For NISMO, Comparable weight to TE37. Bronze Nismo LMGT4 Wheels for sale. Fullset (4): 2 x Front 17x7.5"+30, 2 x Rear17x8.5"+40, Minimum Kms travelled, guarrenteed wheels are straight and never been repaired! few minor chips... No Gutter rashes... Great Overall Condition! Photo taken in lowlight, so they look a little grey, but these wheels are Gold / Bronze in colour! Recommended Nismo fitment size for Silvia S14, S15 and Skylines and other 5x114.3 PCD vehicles. No guard rolling required. Comes with 2 Hankook Ventus 235/45r17 tyres 50% tread. Price Reduced to $1450!! Send me an SMS with your best offer, pickup preferred. These beautiful wheels are looking for a home!!
  18. For sale: Forged Monoblock Rays Nismo Lmgt4's. Sizes are 17x9.5 +12 all round. Kuhmo Ku31 tyres all round. 95% tread 215/40/17 for the front and 90% tread 235/45/17 for the rear. Price and price conditions: $2300 ono Condition: Decent condition Contact Details: 0415 447 759 Location: Green Valley Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pick up *sorry for poor images, phone has a lot dust stuck inside the camera. Cheers Pictures:
  19. GT3076r 0.82 T3

    Selling garrett GT3076r (3037s) 56T with ar 0.82 T3 4 bolt rear housing. Has only done dyno time and is in new condition. Chasing $1350 Posted Tial 44mm Wastegate. $300 Posted. Located Alice Springs NT 0870 0419 856 391 For pics
  20. If ever you've compared a B&M/C's gearstick to the oem one, you'll have noticed the huge difference in throw, effort of movement and gear feedback. Flicking through gears with a B&M can be fun, but it gets annoying really quickly and can sometimes be hard to get out of the gate at WOT. Likewise, the oem stick has a smoother action and is less harsh on the box, but it feels like you're changing gears with a flacid horse cock. Cutting the thread off is dumb, whereas upgrading to a Nismo solid shifter is like paying $200 for the horse to get a boner. The cleanest and cheapest option is to DIY yourself a proper solid shortened shifter. Difficulty = 5 Where 0 is washing your dog, and 10 stopping them from rolling in the nearest poo. Time Required = Under 5 hours Disclaimer If you aren't confident or are still learning to cut/weld things, don't be a noob and risk breaking your only gearstick if it means that you can't get home/to work/McDonalds/strip club/etc. Buy a spare stick and work on that, or schedule some time in which you can get a replacment if you mess up. Also, be sure not to cut appendages off or set fire to yourself. Tools Required OEM Nissan gearstick Mig or Arc Welder plus protective gear Angle grinder with 1mm cutting discs Drill Variety of drill bits and grinding stones Dremel or drill with grinding stonecan use drill instead) Razor knife 3/4" mild steel washer Fibreglass resin + catalyst (optional) Masking tape Needlenose pliers Options and Issues If desired, in preference to welding you can instead fill the outer shell with a glue or resin. Fibreglass resin will NOT work for this. I have tried and the outer shell broke free after one day of usage, so you must use Sikaflex or something that turns solid and has incredible hold If you wish the stick to be heavier and slightly more solid (I guess?), you can cut the washer in half and weld just one side, fill the cavity with fibreglass resin, then weld the other side. Process Step 1. Remove gearstick from car. Refer to the manufacturer's Service Manual for instructions. Tape the thread with 4-6 wraps of electrical tape to protect it from damage. Step 2. Tape up gearstick boot with gaffa tape or something else that's fairly hardcore (i.e. not masking tape), wrap it with some grippy rubber gloves and clamp the shaft in a vice. Step 3. Use a 3-4mm drill bit to drill into the rubber at an angle (be careful to avoid rubbing the drill's chuck on the taped boot, or drilling through the shaft) and gradually separate the rubber from the outer shaft. You will find that some metal filings will be produced, but for the most part this doesn't matter. Even if you have a replacement rubber boot, I do NOT recommend using a torch and lighter fuel to burn out the rubber, as you'll almost certainly damage the plastic retention ring, and you won't have a spare for that. Step 4. Once the rubber appears moderately separated, either switch to a longer drill bit and plunge in deeper to ultimately remove the entire outer shaft, or save yourself some effort and cut off the section of outer shaft you wish to remove. In my case I prefer a fairly extreme drop in gear knob height, so I cut 30mm off. WARNING: DO NOT F**K UP. ONLY SLICE 5MM DEEP INTO THE STICK, AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE, NO DEEPER. If you cut off or cut into the central shaft, then you'll likely need a replacement. Step 5. Carefully slice the cut section at angles, then use multigrips to tear the cut section away from the rubber. Step 6. Use a razor knife remove the exposed rubber from the main shaft, then repeat Step 3 on the now-shorter outer section. Step 7. Now for the tough part. Using a combination of rubber drilling and twisting the outer shell (wear grippy mechanics gloves), remove the outer shell from the inner shaft. Do not try to hammer it out as it won't work, and don't try to clamp and pull it out as the shell will deform. Unfortunately it's just one of those jobs that takes time and effort. I have a very strong grip that I can maintain for extended periods of time, and still it took me a solid 5 - 10 minutes on the S14 gear stick I was working on for this guide (had it out in a few minutes when modding old S13 gear levers). If you have a weaker/normal grip just take your time and have frequent rest breaks in which you drill more and pick out pieces of rubber with needlenose pliers. Step 8. Use a razor knife and grinding stone bit to clean off the rubber from the shaft and shell, as well as smoothing-out any marks or damage from the bench vice or past use. Step 9. Cut the main shaft down to size (in my case to about 25mm) and then cut the end to a point. Slide the outer shell over it and cut/adjust the main shaft until it sits in the original position when fully-seated. Step 10. Grind off the galvanised coating from the 3/4" mild steel washer and weld it to the bottom of the outer shell. Smooth out the weld with a grinder. Step 12. Bore out the hole in the washer until the main shaft slides through it perfectly. Step 13. Mount the main shaft in the outer shell, seated as far in as possible, then weld it in place. Weld in small bursts to avoid melting the plastic/rubber, and so that you can quickly extinguish the tape which will catch fire every time. You must install it with the boot and plastic retention ring in place, positioning the ring flat-side up. If installing a new boot you could probably leave it off, soften it in hot water, grease up the shaft and slide it over once finished. The plastic ring however must be in place. You'll note that my welds aren't ideal as I was welding in short bursts, however by doing so I was able to keep it in check enough that it caused no damage to the rubber. Step 14. Weld some lines at the beginning of the taper on the outer shell, then grind them into rectangles using a 1mm cutting disc. The purpose of this is to create a bump stop to avoid the chasssis insulator boot from riding up high on the stick when retained using zip ties as normal. This is a somewhat optional step, however having run modded shifters like this for a fair while, I feel it's absolutely worth your time to do it. Unless you use something powerful like a hose clamp, or tap holes and run small bolts through the shell, the rubber boot will eventually ride up the gearstick. Step 15. Paint the gear lever and install. The chassis insulator boot will be more compressed and provide a little extra resistance, however it's not a big deal. The less you cut from the outer shell, the less compression on the boot, but I've been running a chopped lever for years now and I love the lower profile.
  21. Item: Rare Nismo Rays LMGT1 3-piece Tyres: 2 tyres
 Pair / Set: Set PCD: 5x114.3 Diameter / Width / Offset: 18x10 +20 Location: Brisbane Willing to Ship: Yes – Buyer pays
 Price: $2850 no tyres - $3000 with the tyres Willing to Swap: Yes – 19x10.5 +12 TE37/LMGT4 (cash) Comment: Tyres are Falken Azenis 275/35/18 (Still has plenty of tread, see pictures). They are in quite good condition for their age. The lips in my opinion are in superb condition considering a wheel built in May, 1997. One wheel lip has some rash/marks on the outer edge and inner lip. On the same wheel, there is also a small indent on one spoke (pictured). The others have some small marks as well, some gutter marks and may have small scratches/marks on the face/spokes. Please see the photos for a better description All wheels have the original RAYS sticker on the inside barrel (under the years of brake dust), these were built in 5th May 1997. I wanted to run these and then re-lip them but don’t want to ruin genuine rare wheels. Pictures: (If you need more, let me know):
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