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About tlmitf

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  • Location
    Australia SA
  • Car Type
    Holden / GM
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  1. Well, some sad news The VL got stolen, so i wont be going forward with the project I keep eying off HR31's tho, so im going to hang onto my parts for now ....
  2. <br /><br /><br /> Yeh, Im taking this one step at a time - but planning ahead can prevent me from making a wrong move in the early stages. Not much point making custom manifolds for the twins, if im just going to go single later on. At this stage im just going to mod the stock manifolds to fit the RB30 head. Either with a adaptor plate, or removing and rewelding the stock flanges and rewelding them into a more correct position. Depends on fitment into the engine bay, as i dont think the VL has the clearance down low like the GR-R does.
  3. Okay, 200kw will be fine from the stockers - going to run with that power level untill i get all the mechanicals sorted (diff, clutch etc etc) Once i have the mechanicals sorted (and exploded the twins) ill be upgrading to something capable of 300kw (limit of the bottom end) I have only done some basic maths on the airflow characteristics of the RB30, so i think some of my assumptions arn't quite right. Does anyone have a propperly calculated airflow V's Pressure ratio calculations? I need some accurate points to plot on these compressor maps. If someone could provide me with some corrected airflow points to plot - perhaps 1.5, 2 and 2.5 BAR if thats not too much trouble. With the rough calculations i have made, the GT3071R (http://tinyurl.com/4ddp82v) should get me to 400hp - which is about perfect for 300Kw at the crank. The GT3076R (http://tinyurl.com/4mcaykr) should be pushing 450-500hp - which puts it at 335-370Kw at the crank - or a bit over 300kw at the treads. With the math i have done, neither of these turbos should surge, but its close. I dont want to be running the turbo flat out at max boost either - but having said that, Im not going to be running 300kw every day, so i need something thats going to respond well at 200kw worth of airflow. What about twin turbo upgrades? T25 about right? I think my mate with the R32 GT-R has bolted on GT-RS or SS turbos (the 'disco potato' whatever one that is)
  4. Doesnt 15 psi on the RB26DETT give you about 240Kw at all 4 wheels? should translate to around 300
  5. The stock RB30 alternator can't really keep up with the stock electrical load. I have spot lights on it, and thats enough to overload the alternator So a good single clutch will hold 300kw, good to know - i just want something easy to street, don't really care if its twin or single - just has to be nice on the box, and able to withstand being slipped/ridden in a car park. So my diff options are to get the 4 pinion diff from either a R31 skyline, or the 4 pinion diff from either a VLT or V8 VL. The VLT is 3.45 the V8 VL is 3.08 - whats the Skyline? 3.45?? Does the Holden LSD run that stupid bloody tapered cone and seat setup - or is it just another viscous center? afaik there wasn't a mechanical center, was there? If im going to go for a mini spool - i would just weld the center to save money. None of the diff's i have welded have failed so far... Anyone know what the stock clutch is good for? Or do i just keep tuning till it gets all hot and stinky on me Please keep in mind that the initial tuning is going to be for roughly 200kw - UNLESS something mechanical gives out first (IE clutch or diff or something) The final tune is going to be when either the turbos run out of puff, or the bottom end cries foul - im lead to believe that the stock twins are good for about 300kw, is this true? I still haven't been able to find a compressor map for the suckers.
  6. To start with im going to tune to the limit of the first thing to give out - which im hoping will the the AFM. That should give me around 200kw. With that in mind im putting together a list of hardware im going to need to pull 300kw. So far on the list i have; AFM - need to speak to Declan if i can use a bigger AFM on the NIStune software - cant see why not. On the list would be a Z32 AFM Fuel pump - 044 motorsport will fix that. Clutch. Does anyone make a sprung twin plate for the 9.5" flywheel? Whats my options here? Gearbox - the RB20 box isn't going to last long, i got it spitting bits of tooth so, RB25 or MX7 are my only options? Diff - stock NA two pinion open wheeler 3.45 gears. What i want is LSD and the same ratio, and disk brake conversion. Brakes - are the R33 struts so different that i cant convert them to work? I haven't actually seen them, let alone compared them to the VL (which im lead to believe is the same as the R31, with a different strut top) Alternator - RB25 alternation conversion - straight bolt in swap if im reading things correctly? Can anyone see anything there i dont need? or something i need that isnt on there?
  7. FC brakes not working. help!

    The FD calipers are basically the same as the FC calipers (as far as performance goes anyway) you can bleed the brakes a million times if your doing wrong, nothing will change. How are you bleeding your brakes?
  8. You know You're a rotary drive when

    You buy 3 popped motors hoping that you'll get at least one good housing... You have a selection of counterweights, and not a single auto trans in sight You know about the 12b and 13a The R26B sound clips are bookmarked in youtube You buy your two stroke more for the smell than the level of protection it gives your 'outboard' The once friendly neighbours no longer talk to you, and are growing shrubs to cut down the noise When the tacho hits 8, and you start counting one thousand, two thousand, three thousand ..... The realisation that mazda put a 8k rpm tach in everything ... for a reason...
  9. If i had VLT shit to slap on it, it would be there already. Im not looking to re-invent the wheel here, im just using what i have available. If it all goes to hell in a handbasket, i will have only wasted some time, and very minimal $$ Had a thought about the diff and gearbox today. I have a MF5 gearbox thats in need of a input bearing, and a RB20 box that badly needs new syncro's. How much torque can the RB20 box take? im assuming its stronger than the MF5? I dont really wanna go jamming a MX7 or RB25 box in there if i don't have to.
  10. I think the good thing here is that i can simply turn the boost down, and pull the timing out till i have something safe to drive. As i upgrade bits and pieces i can retune for more power, without having to upgrade anything The wife found me a 'not-to-bad' body the other day - so it seems that i have now got a full blown project on my hands
  11. I have gotten in contact with Declan, and have nutted out the tuning side of things. I'm doing ALL the mechanical work myself. Custom manifolds, piping and all that stuff i have done before, and will do again. I guess what im really asking, is if all the parts i have access to, will do the job i want them too. I dont want to bolt up the turbos just to find out that the 440cc's I got weren't big enough, or that the factory AFM runs out of resolution during tuning (which it will, its only good for 200ish Kw) I'm also discovering that this thing is going to pump out more power than i expected and if i wind the boost up, im going to be popping diffs and burning clutches at a silly rate
  12. Does anyone have a compressor map for a stock R32 GT-R turbo? I'm going to be playing with a set soon, and i want to know what i have to work with. They are going onto a RB30E - so simply saying 'Don't boost over 15psi" isn't going to work here ...
  13. Gotten in contact with Declan at Garage 7, and the tuning side of things is taken care of Seems i was wrong, the VL runs the Nissan computer, not the Delco system. Should be interesting how this progresses ... first thing to do is cut the rust out. Might trial fit everything and see if any engine bay needs modding while i'm in panel beater mode, lol *Edit for piss poor grammar and spelling* *Another edit* Has anyone got a compressor map for the R32 twins? Might be nice to see exactly what im working with.
  14. Im hoping that the '30 will get good boost response with the twins, the extra capacity should balance out the lack of camshaft ... *EDIT* What would be a good redline for the stock (high km) bottom end? Thinking 6k would be good, but the stock turbo motor went to 6.5 iirc.
  15. I work as a welder/fabricator, so a custom mani (or modding the stocker) wont be an issue. Is the port spacing the same? (or close enough) making an adaptor plate is easy enough Im running the R32 GT-R turbos - they are 2nd hand, but never overboosted (in australia anyway) and still in good condition. The manifolds and dump pipes are supplied as well. From what i can see in the photos, the stud pattern is different, but the ports are quite similar. So either modding the manifolds, or making up an adaptor plate is quite straight forward. Ill get in touch with a few people and find out exactly what computer the VL runs.